March 22^nd - 1901. This day I begin a new book. The last day of the old one contains an account of a day in Rome. I now take up the account of my travels again. We took the 7:00 A.M. train for Milano--by "we," I mean President A. H. Schulthess, Sister Josephine Booth and myself. We arrived via Genoa. Part of the way the country was a level plains, somewhat swampy and often apparently very poor soil. Everywhere through this section there seemed to be a lack of thrift and prosperity. Part of the way we were in a mountainous country and we saw many interesting sights--cities built on hills, or rather towns. One of the most interesting things, however, was the manner in which every foot of ground has been utilized, while at present there does not seem to be the evidence of thrift and progress that one might expect to see, yet a most wonderful amount of labor and money has been expended in these hills. They are terraced everywhere. Every few feet there is a rock wall to hold the soil and this continues from the bottom to the top of the mountains. We traveled along the coast of the Mediterranean Sea on our return and many thoughts were awakened in our hearts with reference to the scenes enacted on its waters and which are so interesting to every student of New Testament history. Part of the time we were on the rock bound part of the coast, frequently within a few feet of the water and many of the views we had were inspiring. We passed through innumerable tunnels and these, with the grand old castles and fortifications here and there, together with the glorious ocean hurling wave after wave towards us with a ceaseless roar, made us feel like Byron when he said, "There is a pleasure in the pathless wood, there is a rapture on the lovely shore, there is society where none intrudes, by the deep sea and music in its roar. In these our interviews, in which I steal from all I am or may have been before, to mingle with the universe and feel what I can ne'er express, yet cannot all conceal." We only had five minutes in Genoa, the home of the fearless and well beloved Columbus, before he went to Spain, but in this brief time our hearts turned to do him reverence, and we selected a graceful yet imposing monument rising high above the sea with the statue of a man on the top looking out upon the ocean and persuaded ourselves that this pile of stone did honor to our illustrious benefactor, and so we let our thoughts have full sway.
 

We arrived at Milano at 10:30 and put up at Hotel Angiolo San Protaso No. 3.
 

March 23^rd. We took the train again for Lucern and had another lovely journey through the Alps arriving at our destination at 2:00 P.M.. We called on a very nice family who had been Catholics but are now Latter Day Saints and spent a few moments very pleasantly. We also went over the places of interest in this city once more and then took the 7:20 train for Bern. Sister Booth and Bro. Schulthess took a boat ride on Lake Lucerne. We arrived at Bern at 10:30 and were met at the station by President McDonald who took us to the conference house where we remained all night.
 

March 24^th. We held two meetings here and they were well attended. It was a conference of the Bern district, but as we had previously held a Priesthood meeting with all the Elders of the Swiss Mission, nothing but these two meetings were held here. In the evening we put in our time writing letters and journal.
 

March 25^th. We went to Zurich via Interlaken and Mieringen.⁽²⁾ It was a lovely day. The sky was clear and the sun shone bright and beautiful. The mountains towered above us everywhere snow-capped and rugged, while the lakes and rivers with their lovely waters formed their part of a scene which once photographed on the mind can never be effaced. We took a walk along Chalming Street for a few moments and then back to the station and continued our journey to Mieringen. Here we had dinner and then went to the "Aareslucht," a narrow pass through the mountains where the Aare River runs. It is a most wonderful sight. I have never seen anything just like it before. The cliffs rise to a great height on either side and they are so narrow that in places they almost touch each other, while the beautiful clear river runs below. Paths have been made so that one can walk through the pass up on to a prominent place from which a fine view up and down the river can be had. It is a charming walk, one is first in tunnels, then on a path hewn out of the mountain and next walking on scaffolding. The river has been wearing its way through here for ages and the evidences of its effects on the mighty cliffs are everywhere apparent. From here we were compelled to take a carriage over the "Brunig Pass,"⁽³⁾ owing to the fact that we were too early for the trains to run through the mountains. We rode to the summit of the pass in a carriage and there we found consider-[page 1 to page 2 of the typescript MS]able snow which made it necessary for us to take a sleigh down the other side. The ride was very enjoyable. Here we got a train at about 5 o'clock for Zurich. When we arrived at the lake of this name, it was dark save for the lights that sparkled from hundreds of places all along the shore of the water. We arrived at Zurich at 9:30 P.M. and were met by Pres. McDonald at the station.
 

March 26^th. My birthday. Bro. Schulthess gave me a watch chain somewhat smaller than an ordinary chain. He and Pres. McDonald were to accompany Sister Booth and I to the Fallo of the Rhine, but owing to other engagements they failed to come, so we went alone. It was a lovely morning--the sun was shining brightly and the view was very fine. Not so charming, however, as last summer, owing to the fact that the water was low. After spending about two hours around the falls, we went to Winterthur, where we were to meet the Brethren. We had dinner with Brother and Sister Billeter from Utah who are here working in the interst of genealogy in the employment of the genealogical society of Utah. We had a nice little meeting in the evening and stayed all night with Sister Kellar.
 

March 27^th. Took the 9:30 AM train for Munich, travelling via Romanshon across Lake Constance arriving at our destination at 5:05 PM. We were met by Bros. Clarence M. Cannon and Thos. E. McKay and held a meeting in Brother Einsinger's house, no liberty to preach being granted here. This is the brother on whose wall are all the tobacco pipes--relices of the days when the Gospel found him. I have previously written of him in my journal, having first met him last summer. I found the family as happy as ever.
 

March 28^th. We went to the old city of Nurnberg⁽⁴⁾ leaving Munich at 9:30 AM and arriving at the former place at 11:30 AM. We were met at the station by Bro. Hohne and spent an interesting day. First we went to the old castle where the Instruments of Torture are. We saw the "Fraunen Kirche"⁽⁵⁾ where the figures of the Apostles march every day at 12, then we had dinner in Hans Sachs, the cobbler poet's old shoe shop, now a restaurant. From there we went through the Rathous, then to a place called the "Mount of Olives," representing the scene that took place in that memorable place, the Savior praying, the Apostles asleep. We then went to the castle and saw the following things: a tub worn by men and women when drunken and abusive, things to fasten on the heads of men and women who were brutal, a chair with 2000 points of iron that condemned persons were compelled to sit in--sharp points on the sides, back and bottom. The rack upon which they were stretched, the thumbscrew, a cradle with sharp iron points sticking up in which people were racked and tortured, branding irons, wheel to break bones, upright plank, sharp edge of which people had to sit with a 40 pound weight on each foot. 800 persons were executed, nad their heads cut off with one knife. It is an exhibition now in a case in the castle. The last execution occurred in 1807. Instruments to put on arms and legs, shame bells fastened on a board and put around the necks of women who scold. The "Young Frau" made of iron in the shape of a woman⁽⁶⁾ with long spikes inside it opens in the front. Into this, human beings were put naked, two spikes went in the eyes, others in the breast and others in different parts of the body, then a spring could be touched and the body would fall down below where there were knives to cut it up and the river running below carried the remains away. An old bell stands by the "Young Frau" that sounded the death knell of the poor victims. It had a sickening sound. An old chair where condemned men were placed and executed. They were strapped in and their heads cut off (the last one in 1830). A figure of a rubber⁽⁷⁾ who made his escape by jumping a horse over the wall, his name was Eberlein Von Gallion. It is said that each victim was granted his last wish before death. Eberlein desired to ride in the yard once more on his horse, this being granted, he made the horse jump over the low wall down thirty feet and got away. Old clubs used in the 30 years war, an old clock 200 year[s] old, a bicycle 600 years old. The deep well, 335 feet, 30 years in the making in the 11^th century by prisoners, underground passages leading from it to court house and hill--an 800 year old tree died 7 years ago. 17^th Century stove, St. John in caldron of boiling oil. We had a nice walk around the wall surrounding the city. We stood on the swinging bridge across the river Pognutz. Above this in the wall is a prison. The elders were threatened with being put in it if they dared to tract or preach in Nurnberg. Meetings are forbidden. The saints were all arrested once and fined twenty marks and all meetings have to be held in secret. Nurenberg⁽⁸⁾ is not entirely free from the old spirit of persecution under which people were tortured in olden times. Recently when Pres. Schulthess was attending a secret meeting here, a policeman suddenly entered. He ordered them to go on with their meeting. [Page 2 to page 3 of the typescript MS.] President S. preached a good discourse, having a free flow of the spirit. All parties were summoned before the court next day but were dismissed with a warning not to preach nor read the bible to the people in secret. Brother Hohme, however, is a fearless worker and is undaunted and true in the midst of this opposition.
 

March 29^th. We went to Chemnitz where a meeting had been appointed. It was the first public meeting the elders have held in this city. There was a good turnout of friends. The hall was full. The missionaries are doing well here and prospects for new additions are excellent.
 

March 30^th. We went to Dresden where we met President Heppler and the missionaries. In the afternoon, we took a walk around the city to places of interest previously mentioned in my journal, such as the bridge crossed by Brother Richards and Maeser, the old Palace, the museum of statuary, etc.
 

March 31^st. Held conference that had been previously appointed, one private meeting with the Saints and two in a lovely hall that cost only three dollars and seventy-five cents for both services. The hall was well filled each meeting. Probably two hundred strangers attended.

April 1^st. In the morning we visited the Art Gallery, one of the finest in the world. It was a great treat. Among the great painters whose works we feasted our eyes on were the following: Murillo, Snyder, Rembrandt, Rubens, Roos, Rebira, Vaillant, Holbein, Duner,⁽⁹⁾ Dalis, Raphael, Hofman,⁽¹⁰⁾ a modern painter now living in Dresden, and Difffenbacher. The latter's "Sad News," where word of the death of the father is being brought to the family is interesting. Raphael's "Madonna" is the finest picture in the Gallery . . . the most celebrated. It is a picture of the Virgin Mary with the child Jesus in her arms and a saint on either side. Hoffman's "Jesus in the Temple" and the "Woman Taken in Adultery" are good. From here we went to see the model of the Lorelei,⁽¹¹⁾ representing a fable of the Rhine in Sculpture. Then we had a good Priesthood meeting where interesting reports were given in and the Spirit of the Lord was richly poured out, causing our hearts to rejoice. In the evening we had an entertainment.

April 2^nd. Took the 3:40 train for the city of Gorlitz,⁽¹²⁾ where we held a meeting at which there were a number of strangers present.

April 3^rd. Gorlitz is said to be situated like Jerusalem and here is to be found an illustration of the Savior's condemnation and crucifixation . . . that is to say, the country lies the same, a church represents the Judgment seat where Jesus was condemned before Pilate. A spot outside represents the place where he took up the cross, then we go down a narrow street said to be just like it is in Jerusalem a few hundred feet or yards and we come to a little monument representing the place where Jesus fell the first time under the load of the cross. "1489" is inscribed on the stone. This street is called Lounitz Strasse. Then we turn into another street called the Heilege Grabe Strausse . . [.] the Holy Grave Street. A short distance on this street we come to another little monument representing the place where Jesus [fell]⁽¹³⁾ the 2^nd time and where Joseph of Arimathea took up the cross and carried it for him. It is at the foot of a hill representing Calvary. Up this Joseph carried the cross for Christ. On this hill there are three big trees growing in the same position as the three crosses were on Calvary. Then there is a prison representing the place in which the Savior is said to have been placed just before the hour arrived when he was placed on the cross. Next to this is the place where Mary took the body of Christ and anointed it preparatory to burial. Then comes the tomb into which the Savior was placed and where the Roman soldiers guarded the place of his burial. It is said to be just the same as that in Jerusalem. Opposite is a hill situated like the Mount of Olives and flowing between is a brook called Kedron. It runs in the same direction as the Jerusalem "Kedron." In the wall of the building representing the temple is a "rent" referring to the [veil]⁽¹⁴⁾ of the temple being "rent" when the Savior expired. There was a representation of a cross as it used to be in Jerusalem, showing holes in the rocks below for the blood to run out. On it is the inscription placed over the head of the Savior "J.N.K.J" or "J.N.K.I." Jesus of Nazareth King of the Jews.⁽¹⁵⁾ On the mount of olives there is an olive tree just the same as the original one. At the tomb, there is the big stone in front as it was when rolled away by the angels. The soldiers even are represented and their seats inside the tomb is a mark on the wall supposed to be the height of the Savior and it is said that no man has been found who is just the same height. I came under it a little over an inch. The feast of the Passover was also represented where the Savior had his last supper with the Apostles, also the place where "lots" [typescript page 3 to page 4] were cast for the Savior's "Vestine"⁽¹⁶⁾ and dice supposed to be like those used then. The old church representing the place of judgment is very interesting. It dates back to the 8^th century[.] It is called Peter "Kirche." It has a copper roof obtained by Tetzel, one of the Catholic Priests by the sale of indulgences. Tetzel's Confessional box is in it. His office used to be across the street. Services were held in the basement in early times. I stood in the pulpit that used to be occupied in the 8^th century. There is an underground pass from here to the castle. It is the oldest church in Germany. There are some old relics in it of an early date. Not having enough material to complete the old bell, three bricks were put in it and they can be seen plainly now. We also saw an old house on which was a lot of statuary representing scenes in the life of Christ and also of the children of Israel. One of the old monarchs "August the Strong" used to live here. At 10:50 AM we took the train for Breslau, separated here from the rest of the party and Pres. Schulthess and I went to Oderberg to meet Elders Markow and Lau who were recently banished from Temeswar, Hungary. They have done a fine work there, 31 having been baptized in five months, all Catholics but one. The Priests were at the bottom of the banishment. Two local brethren were ordained elders, however, and will continue the work. A fine lot of people have been found in this field. We met our brethren and had a joyful time. It was decided to send one of them to Hamburg and the other to Munich and to send Brother Mathis, Pres. of the Frankfurt conference[,] to Temesvar and Thos. E. McKay from Munich to preside in Frankfurt. We took a long walk by moonlight on a nice road and had an interesting time with the brethren.

April 4^th. We returned to Breslau⁽¹⁷⁾ and held meeting. There were quite anumber of strangers present. Bros. McDonald and Heppler spoke.

April 5^th. We took train⁽¹⁸⁾ for Posen where we arrived at 2 PM and remained overnight. We visited a Catholic church and witnessed the people crowding around and kissing an image of the Savior. They first kissed his feet, then his knees, then his hand and face. Dozens of people crowded around, dropped on their knees several feet back and crawled to kiss the image. I thought of the Lord's commandment against bowing before images or making them in the likeness of anything in Heaven or on earth and how it is daily violated among the Catholics. Posen is a fine city[;] there is a nice class of people in it and we felt impressed that it would be a good field for missionary work. There have been no missionaries in it as yet. The brethren had a conversation with a fine young man and he came to the station next morning to see us off.
 

April 6^th. We took the ten o'clock train for Koenigsb[u]rg and arrived there at 7 in the evening. [O]ur Party consisted of Sisters A. Dahlquist and J. Booth and Bros. Schulthess, McDonald, Heppler and myself, Bro. Coop having left us at Dresden and Sister Dahlquist having joined us at Breslau. We were met at the station by Bros. Woodruff and Irvin whom we were delighted to see and who were just as well pleased to see us. We went right to a meeting of the Saints, the house was well filled and we had a good time.
 

April 7^th. We had a good Sunday school which reflected great credit on the elders. There were 84 persons present, nearly all of whom were non members. 14 months ago there were no Saints here[;] the elders began their work then and now they have splendid prospects. They are kept busy visiting friends. There are fifty families who receive them kindly. We held [a] meeting in the afternoon and evening in a good hall and had a large attendance. There are 29 members here.
 

April 8^th. We held Priesthood meeting between 10 AM and 3 PM. Most excellent reports were presented. Perfect love and unity were shown to exist among the brethren and the future outlook is good. In the evening we held a concert, the house was crowded and the good feelings manifested at the close were gratifying. After meeting, Sisters Booth and Dalhquist and Bros. Woodruff and Irvine went out on the river for a boat ride while Pres. S. and I returned to the hotel.
 

April 9^th. In Koenigsburg there is an interesting old castle where Frederick the First crowned himself King in 1701. This was the home of Queen Louise. The room is just as she occupied it. She fled from Napoleon and slept with a poor family in Momal. The old best on which she slept when with this family is in the castle. Napoleon swore that he would capture the Queen. She was very beautiful bue he failed. She contracted a cold during her exile from which she died. [Typescript page 4 to page 5] In the castle is the largest hall or one of the largest in Germany. It is called "Moscowiter" hall. Kornigsberg [sic] is a strongly fortified city. It has a garrison of 15,000 soldiers. We left this place at 12 o'clock for Danzig⁽¹⁹⁾ and arrived in Danzig at 5:30 PM. We located in an hotel where we had supper and then took a walk around the old city. It has a population of 120,000 and is quite a shipping point. Considerable shipbuilding is carried on here and there are quite a number of war vessels on the river. At suppertime in our hotel several Tyrolean singers male and female[ ] sang very sweetly for us, one of them being "The Tyrolese and his Child . . . ." "I will call my child to me and in his eyes his mother see."
 

April 10^th. We went to the fish market and saw all the oddly dressed and stout women handling fish. Then we took a ride out to Westerplatte on a boat--a pleasure resort on the river. Ten minutes walk took us to the shores of the Baltic Sea. Here on the rocks I recited bits of poetry from different authors, including "The Woman's Question"--"The Man's Answer"--"Phanderis Crahore" and "First Settler's Story."⁽²⁰⁾ The rain came on before I got through the last piece so we left the rocks and took refuge under a bath house and finished it. Our party consisted of Pres. Schultess, McDonald, Elders J. L. Woodruff, Kleinman, Hottendorf and Irvine. Going back to the boat the rain poured down on us. At 8 o'clock we held meeting with an attendance of 70 strangers. There are no saints here, the district having only recently been opened up. The prospects are good--there are many friends.
 

April 11^th. We took the 7:15 train for Stettin where we arrived at 1:30. There was an afternoon meeting which was well attended. Also one in the evening. At the latter there were two hundred strangers and we had a fine time. After meeting we had chocolate and cake with a house full of friends. The ride to Stettin was over a fine country and very interesting. Brother Kotter was arrested here sometime ago on account of someone complaining about his tracting. The Police put handcuffs on him but he demanded that they be taken off, as he was no criminal and it was done. He was taken before the court and informed that they could banish him entirely. "Well," he said, "If you send me away today there will be four more here tomorrow." Stettin has a population of about 250,000 and it a very nice city.
 

April 12^th. Took the 1:30 train for Berlin where we arrived at 4:45. We attended a choir practice and met a number of Utah people, among whom were Sisters Lucy B. Young, Sarah Cluff and daughter, Lulu Gates and Emma Ramsay, also a number of elders--W. A. Wallace, Dr. M. B. Shipp, Jr. and others.
 

April 13^th. Did some shopping and spent the rest of the day at the office, 196 Frankfurter Allee. Received a telegram this morning containing the news about the death of President Cannon. It was from President Lyman. Was astounded to hear it and felt that I had lost a dear friend.
 

April 14^th. Held conference in Berlin in "Koenig Saale" at one o'clock. There was a Sunday School which was well conducted, and in which there were a great many children of non-members. At three o'clock we held meeting and had a crowded house. There were probably three hundred strangers present. We enjoyed a free flow of the spirit of the Lord. At the close, some Americans came forward and were introduced. We had a pleasant conversation. They seemed to be favorably impressed with the meeting. Among them was Dr. York, dentist to the Emp[orer's] family and his wife. At 8 [o]'clock we had another meeting. The house was filled again and we had another profitable time.
 

April 15^th. We met at ten o'clock this morning in Priesthood meeting. We were in session ten hours, stopping an hour and a half for dinner. We had a joyful time. The conference is prospering. Friends are being found on every hand. Elder R. L. Haag, Ed. of the "Stern[,]" is the President. He is a hard worker. There were a number of visiting brethren with us, also Sister Lucy Young and Sarah Cluff. Every person spoke. Some sick brethren were administered to. Last year Pres. Schulthess and the brethren were compelled to leave Hamburg which was then the headquarters of the Mission on account of having no liberty to conduct their business and being threatened with fine and imprisonment. They came to Berlin with some fears but the outcome has been good. They have all the liberty desired and feel highly elated with the present prospects. [Typescript page 5 to page 6]
 

April 16^th. Spent the day at the office in Berlin writing letters. Took a walk down Frankfurter Allee, the street on which the office is located. It is a fine wide street probably a mile long. In the evening I attended a concert gotten up by the missionaries and Utah students. It was a grand success. There were about four hundred people present, most of whom were non-members.
 

April 17^th. We went to the Museum of art and sculpture and saw a great many fine paintings and pieces of sculpture[;] among the former were Gebhart[']s last supper which we studied with profit. Henneberg's "After Luck" showing a man pursuing that phantom while death pursued him, Queen Louise's flight from Koenigsburg to the old farm house where she hid from Napoleon at Momel, this is by Hildebrand. Of the statuary pieces deserving mention were one of a tired woman resting by the way with her sweet little babe nursing at her breast, its little hand was on its mother's breast where the little pets love to put it while nursing. I have seen the same thing in my own home many a time. The Mother lay down by a crucifix tired out and as she dozed the child nursed. This work was done by Rheinhold. The next was an old fisherman saving a girl from drowning. He carried her out in his arms. The statue of the young girl was perfect as was also that of the old fisherman. This was by A. Brutt. Another fine thing was the "Sleeping Beauty." The figure of a young girl asleep in a big chair. The work on this is also very fine. This is by Hellborn. Another good thing was the figures of Hagar and her child when driven out by Abraham or rather when sent away according to Sarah's request. This is by Wittig. Another good painting was the raising of Jairus['s] daughter by the Savior as painted by Richter. On coming out of the gallery we had dinner and then went for a walk along "Unter Den Linden[,]" one of the finest streets in Berlin. It is a fine wide thoroughfare with walks and drives and avenues for horseback riding. As we approached it, we saw a fine monument to Frederick the Great and on leaving it we passed through a gateway called "Brandenberg Thor." On top of this is the statuary taken away by the French in 1807 and triumphantly brought back again by the victorious Germans later on. Next we came to the monument of Victory commemorative of the war with the French of '70 - '71 when the Germans utterly annihilated the French. It is a magnificent structure two hundred feet high, beautifully ornamented with figured work in bold relief and the upper part covered with cannon taken from the French and the Danes in the war[s] of 1814, 1866 and 1870-71 while a lovely figure of a female surmounts the whole. Immediately in front of this is the Channing Seigers Allee with its thirty statues of German rulers of the past, while all around it is the "Tiergarten," a lovely park with trees, drives and walks. It covers hundreds of acres[,] it looks like. Next we went to the main business streets, namely "Leipziger" and "Frederickstrasse." They certainly put on a lively appearance, but not so much so as some streets in New York or Chicago.
 

April 18^th. Spent the day at the office in Berlin while Sister Booth, Bro. McDonald and others went out to Potsdam. In the evening we all went to the circus and witnessed some interesting performances, among which were the tumbling and horseback riding. The most interesting thing, however, was the chase after deer. There was a representation of high cliffs and mountains, also a river and there were real deer. These were chased by men and women on foot and horseback. They ran down the mountain and jumped off a cliff ten feet high into the deep water. Men followed on foot and horse and jumped off the same place into the water and all swam ashore. It was quite exciting to see them plunge into the river. During the day we had dinner with Sister Cluff.
 

April 19^th. Went to the "Wintergarten" with President McDonald and Schulthess and others, per kindness of Prof. Coop of Ogden.
 

April 20^th. We all went to Hamburg where we arrived at 1:30 and were met by Pres. of the conference S. Ferrin. During the afternoon we saw something of the city. It is a fine place. We also went for a ride on a steamboat around the harbor and saw a great many fine ships. I stopped with Bro. and Sister Ehler and was most kindly received and provided for.
 

April 21^st. Held conference in Hamburg--Sunday school in the morning at ten o'clock. There was a large attendance. There is the best branch in Hamburg and the best Sunday School in the German Mission. At 12 o'clock we had a good meeting with the saints and at three a public meeting. All were well attended, especially the latter.
 

April 22^nd. Two years ago today I left home for England. It was a never-to-be forgotten day. Mary drove me to Garner station at four o'clock in the morning to get the train. It was very dark and it seemed hard to have her go back alone. We had Priesthood meeting today at which interesting reports were given in. Brother Datwyler has labored without money and filled an excellent mission. We were favored with the presence of Brother W. A. Wallace and sisters Lulu Gates and Emma Ramsay, each of whom sang very sweetly for us. In the evening, we all went for a ride on the steamboat in the harbour.
 

April 23^rd. We held another Priesthood meeting. It continued over six hours and proved to be a very interesting session. In the evening a fine concert was rendered. It was a credit to our people.
 

April 24^th. In company with Brother McDonald and Sister Booth, I left for Copenhagen. Brothers Schulthess, Ferrin and Nibly accompanied us to Kiel. We arrived at our destination in Denmark at 7 o'clock in the evening, took a cab for the office and there met Presidents Fjelstead, Skanchy and Peterson, the first two having just arrived from Utah.
 

April 25^th. The first thing this morning we took a walk down on the seashore. It was a fine day. The sun was shining brightly and the scenery was very pretty and at 12 o'clock we went to the castle and saw the soldiers march according to the old customs of the country. I have described this performance heretofore. In the evening we had supper with Fyhn and family, returning to our hotel at ten o'clock.
 

April 26^th. We went to the National Art Gallery this morning and saw quite a number of fine paintings. After dinner we visited the Thorwaldsen Museum of Sculpture. Thorwaldsen was the great of Scandinavian sculptors. In the afternoon we went through some of the main streets of the city. We have also been through Frederickskirchen, a nice church near the castle. It has statues of the apostles and early christian fathers all around the top of it. There are also many statues and monuments throughout the City of Authors, statesmen and soldiers. We witnessed the old custom of the band playing at 12 o'clock before the castle, but I described this on my former visit.
 

April 27^th. In company with Presidents Fjeldsted of the Seven Presidents of the Seventies and Bishop Skanchy, the new President of the Scandinavian Mission, also Sister Booth, the lady missionary from Scotland, I went to Gotenberg to attend conference. We left Copenhagen at 10:58 and arrived at Gotenburg [sic] sometime after 6 P.M. We were about half an hour on the water from Helsingen to Helsingborg. We passed over some fine farming land, also some very rocky land and we were part of the time on the sea coast. We travelled a little over two hundred miles. On our arrival we were met at the station by President of the Conference and several other of the brethren. At 8 o'clock we held the first meeting of the conference. Five of the elders spoke.
 

April 28^th. Last night the first meeting of the conference was held. Today we held three more. They were well attended. I stopped at Bro. Niels Soderberg's as did also Bros.

Fjelsted and Skanchy. We were treated with the utmost kindness. All the saints were very kind. There were more invitations for meals than could possibly be used. To travel in Sweden again brings back old memories that linger when all else is gone. It turns my heart to dear ones far away and makes me live over again those scenes of the past from which fresh sweetness may ever be obtained--scenes that come in the nighttime of sorrow and care and bring with them love and good cheer. I hope and pray that my boys⁽²¹⁾ shall have the privilege of travelling in their mother's⁽²²⁾ native land that they may think the thoughts and experience the feelings that have moved my heart in doing this.
 

April 29^th. We held two Priesthood meetings during the day and a meeting of the Sunday School in the evening. A good spirit prevailed at each of them. The reports of the [typescript page 7 to page 8] elders were good. 23 baptisms had been performed since last conference and many investigators were reported throughout the conference. A creditable showing was made by the Sunday School. It was not so large, however, as some others in the Mission.
 

April 30^th. Went out sightseeing. Gotenburg is quite a pretty city. It has 130,000 people and it is a great shipping point--the Key to Sweden. There are mountains or rock rising abruptly in the city. In places the streets have been cut through these to make the thoroughfares. There are some fine parks in the city, two of which we visited. The name of the one was "Barens lek park"--Children's Pleasure Park"[--] and the other was "Slotsskogen parken"--the Palace Park. We saw Molin's sculpture "The Rivals" and the statue of Erickson, the inventor. A nice story is told of Ole Bull the musician and Ericksen [sic]. They had been boys together and Ole went into Erickson's laboratory to visit him. The latter made light of the profession chosen by the former when Ole Bull made reply by playing a sweet tune that completely charmed Erickson and led him to declare that the former's profession was alright. There are many fine homes in Gothenburg [sic] and good business blocks. One of the finest residence streets is "Kongsports Avenyen."
 

May 1^st. We took the 8 o'clock train for Christiana[;] on the way we had another dinner similar to the one at Halmstad where everybody helps themselves. We arrived at our destination at 8 o'clock and found President Pedersen at the office, also Bro. Christophersen and others. After supper we secured rooms at the Frubye's Hotel. Here we remained during conference.
 

May 2^nd. On our journey from Gotenburg to Christiana we passed over some good farming land, some very rocky country and mountains of timber. Along the way were many pretty scenes. This day was spent indoors at the hotel and office. There was a meeting in the evening at the hall. The church owns a large building here, have their own hall in it and rent many rooms to families.
 

May 3^rd. Bros. Skanchy and Fjeldsted and Sister Booth, Bro. Pedersen and I went up to "Holmenkollen," a lovely pleasure resort up in the hills about half an hour out of town. We had a fine view of the surrounding country. The Christiana fjord stretched out before us dotted with little islands covered with timber and all around us were lovely pines from among which fine residences made their appearance. At our feet was a small lake of sparkling water where in the wintertime sports are indulged in when the water is frozen over and the snow is deep. The view was inspiring. It made me think of the west highlands of Scotland and scenes in Switzerland. In the evening we held another meeting. It was a conjoint meeting of the Young Men's and Young Women's Associations and it was a good one, such a one in fact as any of our best wards at home might be proud of.
 

May 4^th. Last night after meeting we took a walk on some of the main streets of the city to see the people. It was a holiday and there were many people out. A finer class of men and women would be hard to find. We walked by the National Theatre and University which are fine buildings. Near these are statues of two living poets, Bjornsen, a politician poet and Ibsen, also a poet. This morning we went to Fredericksburg across the fjord from the city. We visited "Sadegaarsoen," a place where an old Catholic church is located. It was brought from a distance to this point and is very old--said to be 800 years old. It is made of logs and wood entirely and quite different in architecture from anything I have seen elsewhere. We came back by Oscars Hall Castle. This is situated on a prominent point overlooking the fjord and from the opposite bank presents a very pretty sight. This place is surrounded by heavily timbered hills and the same are to be found in all directions from Christiana.
 

May 5^th. The first meeting of the conference was held on the night of the 4^th and we held three more today. They were all well attended and interesting. This was especially true of the evening meeting. Every seat was taken and many remained standing during the whole meeting.
 

May 6^th. Today we held two Priesthood meetings. Reports were given by the elders in the morning and instructions in the afternoon. Another meeting for the Sunday School was held in the evening. A good Sunday School is in operation here. A fine work has been done since last conference--60 baptisms. [Typescript page 8 to page 9]
 

May 7^th. One great advantage this conference has over all others is that it owns the building in which meetings are held and rents rooms to eight families. There is a good hall and office rooms in it. Today Bro. Hansen of Christiana gave a feast in the hall for the missionaries. He did the same thing last year. 25 elders sat down at the table and a very fine meal was enjoyed. In the evening a testimony and sacrament meeting was held. This is held once a month and the sick are administered to, ordinations performed, etc. During the afternoon we went up on "Santhaushaagen," a hill where the waterworks are. There is an open reservoir and fountain on the top. Sometime ago when it was cleaned out there were quite a number of little babies found in the bottom of it.⁽²³⁾ We had an excellent view of the city and surrounding country from this place. What I regard as a fine piece of sculpture work is to be found on this hill. It is a lioness with her two cubs looking for the approach of an enemy. It is by H. Strutzers. There is also a statue of a noted Norwegian poet here.
 

May 8^th. I spent most of the day in the office. At night there was another feast in honor of the missionaries gotten up by the Y. L. & Y. M. A's.⁽²⁴⁾ Long tables were spread loaded down with good things, among which were flags, flowers and plants. The people were all seated facing the tables and when the elders entered they all rose to their feet and the choir commenced to sing. After supper a program was rendered, but we had to leave before it was finished to get the 11:17 train for Lorvig. We travelled all night and arrived at our destination at four in the morning. We waited at the station till 6:30, when our boat arrived and went on board bound for Bergen. The sea was somewhat "choppy" which made us feel a little uncomfortable, though not very sick. This was the morning of the 9^th. Today we paid 2 ½ kroner each for dinner and thus far have held on to it pretty well for which we are thankful. The scenery along the coast is rough and wild and in places very romantic looking. Every few miles we go into narrow fjords and call at small towns. All along the coast there are houses among the rocks. One is puzzled to know how the people live but they seem to be thriving.
 

May 10^th.⁽²⁵⁾ This morning we awoke on a calmer sea and a clearer day. We saw many pretty views as we sailed from fjord to fjord. They day closed very pleasantly. The sun was shining brightly and the water almost smooth as glass.
 

May 11^th. We were aroused this morning by the brethren in Bergen and awoke to find our ship in the docks. We all went at once to the office and hall from which place we were distributed to the best possible advantage. We found Bergen looking very pretty. The trees were all out in full leaf and the day lovely and clear. We saw a little of the town. In the evening we held the first meeting of the conference which was well attended.
 

May 12^th. Today we held three meetings, each time the house was full. In the afternoon some were standing in the hall. A good spirit rested upon the speakers and the audience seemed to enjoy the services. It rained all day.
 

May 13^th. We held two Priesthood meetings today and had a profitable time. The reports of the elders were good, all things considered. 19 baptisms were reported. In the evening another meeting was held. There were not many present. It rained all day again. Bergen is noted for rainy weather.
 

May 14^th. President Garff, Brothers Anton Jensen, Mortensen and others went with us up on a mountain at the foot of which Bergen is built. It is 2000 feet high. From the one thousand foot level we had a lovely viewbut from the top the view was not so good. There are foot paths and roads winding up this mountain and a great deal of money has been expended in this work. The Government controls the saloons in Norway and the profits are used in such work. In the evening a feast was given and a program of exercises rendered.
 

May 15^th. We went through the museum and while there were many things of interest in it, yet it was quite small compared with some we have seen. From the museum Bros. Mortensen and Jensen and Sister Booth and I went out to a very old church at a place called Blorem [or Florem?].⁽²⁶⁾ [Typescript page 9 to page 10] It is situated on an estate out in the hills about three miles from Bergen. The scenery on the way out and around the old church is very beautiful. All nature was rejoicing in the gladness of May. There were pretty little lakes in the mountains and these combined with all the colors of the trees and shrubbery made a very interesting picture. In the evening at nine o'clock we took the boat for Trondhjem.⁽²⁷⁾ It was a fine boat, the night was lovely and the sea very smooth. Many of the saints and elders came down to wave us good-bye. I got my American flag and waved it while our friends receded from view.
 

May 16^th. We had a rather rough day. The waves rolled high and many were sick and part of the time it was very rough. None of our party were sick, except Sister Booth. This may well be called the rock-bound coast of Norway. Part of the time we were out on the sea and part of the time in fjords. In all of the latter we were surrounded by mountains of rock. Every little way we would see lone houses among the rocks, a patch of green grass[,] a little soil under cultivation and here and there a little town. We wondered how the people lived but every time the boat stopped and we got to see the people we found them all well clad and with an appearance of being well fed.
 

May 17^th. We awoke to fin[d]⁽²⁸⁾ ourselves at our destination. President Ronnord was on hand to meet us and we were soon taken to the conference house where we met the missionaries. It was a holiday like our fourth of July, the anniversary of Norway's separation from Denmark. The day was miserable, snow and sleet were falling and it was quite cold, still there was a big procession joined in by both young and old by the hundreds. The little children marching carrying their flags were the most interesting.
 

May 18^th. The missionaries all being in, we held two Priesthood meetings at which reports and instructions were given. The conference was found to be in a better condition than when I visited it a year ago. There had been a number of baptisms and greater love and unity existed among the elders and the saints.
 

May 19^th. Today we held three meetings in a nice hall. They were well attended. The great number of strangers that were present indicated that there was quite a spirit of inquiry among the people. One gentleman who speaks English, a newspaperman, quite well off, came to me at the close of the evening meeting and thanked me for the remarks made stating that it was his intention to unite with us. The first meeting of the conference was held last night. There was a good attendance.
 

May 20^th. Took the 8 o'clock train for Stockholm and was 26 hours reaching that city. Trondhjem [sic] has about 40,000 people. It is the place where the kings were crowned. There is an old cathedral where this is done. The meaning of the term "Trondhjem" is "the home of the throne."⁽²⁹⁾
 

May 21^st. Arrived at Stockholm at 10:10--went direct to "Hornsgaten 80," the conference house, found Pres. J. Johnson there alone. Went out with him to dinner. I went to Stockholm early with the intention of going over to Gotland to visit some of the Jacobsons⁽³⁰⁾ whose addresses I had[,] but on my arrival I learned that there were no elders on Gotland and, while the boat went over there on Wednesday night, it did not return till the next Monday night, so as a conference was on Saturday and Sunday, I could not go.
 

May 22^nd. Spent in and around Stockholm with the brethren.
 

May 23^rd. Went with Bros. Cannon and Johnson and some of the saints out to the woods. We went by boat along the lake. It was a row boat and we took turns rowing. The scenery was lovely and our boat ride very fine. In the evening we held a meeting in the hall. It had been advertised but only a few came.
 

May 24^th. We went to "Skausens," a place where all the scenes represented in the North country are produced, such as the Laps in their homes, something like Inian wickie-ups. Polar bears sporting in the water. The reindeers [sic] and dogs from Lapland, etc. It is a [typescript page 10 to page 11] very interesting and pretty place. In the evening we held another meeting. It was in a different hall, had been advertised and was better attended.
 

May 25^th. Held two Priesthood meetings. Good reports were presented and an interesting and profitable time had. 54 baptisms have been performed since last conference 8 months ago. In the evening the first meeting of the conference was held, there was a fairly good turnout.
 

May 26^th. Three more meetings were held. They were crowded and the speaking was good. A fine dinner was provided by a good sister, a widow. [A]t 8:40 Sister B. and I left for Copenhagen. We were 14 hours getting there during which time we passed over many pretty scenes. There has been a good deal of opposition in Stockholm from two women from Utah. They have been lecturing against us, also some editors and priests, but the elders have answered them. One of these ladies appeared on the platform dressed in endowment robes. The people thought they were fine and remarked how like the robes worn by the savior in a picture behind the speaker.
 

May 27^th. Arrived at Copenhagen at 10:30, went direct to the office. In the afternoon went to Fredericksburg, a fine big park in this city, or rather out on the edge of it. The great trees and lovely walks and drives were fine. Returning, rode two miles on an electric boat on Copenhagen's artificial lake. Everything is beautiful around the city now.
 

May 28^th. Received a message from President Lyman that the Rotterdam Conference which was to have been held on Jne 2^nd was off and for me to come direct to Liverpool via Glasgow. There being no boat to Scotland, I had to return via Hamburg and Grimsby, which I proceded to do this day. Took train for Hamburg where we arrived at 10:40 and met Bros. Schulthess and Ferrin. Stopped all night at Bro. Ehler['s]. Had dinner with Sister Nolte and took the nine o'clock boat for Grimsby. The two brethren met us at four o'clock to fill an appointment in Lubeck.
 

May 30^th.⁽³¹⁾ On board the Northenden we have had smooth sailing thus far. No one sick, for which we are all glad.
 

May 31^st. Arrived at Grimsby very early in the morning and was met by Bros. Wagstaff, Hart and Ririe. We went with these brethren to their rooms and had a good breakfast which was prepared by themselves. At 9:15 we took the train for Edinburgh, [to] which place we arrived at 6:00 PM. We remained here all night and visited the missionaries and some of the saints.
 

June 1^st. At ten A.M. we left for Glasgow and arrived there at 11:15. Brother Bowman and Sister Penfold met us at the station. At the conference house we met a number of others[,] among whom were Brother and Sister Frame and Bro. Thompson, all of whom accompany us home. I was agreeably surprised on arriving at the station to find Geo. G. Smith of Salt Lake with Bro. Bowman. We had a nice visit together and a long talk about old times and friends.
 

June 2^nd. This is the last Sunday of my mission. I can scarcely realize that before another Sunday arrives I will be well on my way towards America. How quick the last two years since I left my home have passed away and what a number of changes they have brought. We held three meetings today in Glasgow, a priesthood meeting in the morning, a testimony meeting in the afternoon and a public meeting at night. They were all interesting and spirited. After the evening meeting, Bro. Geo. G. Smith, Sisters Booth and Penfold, Bro. Bowma and myself went out to Rutherglen⁽³²⁾ to see my relatives. It was a lovely evening and the scenery was delightful. We walked a long way and enjoyed it very much but when we got to the house, which was at about 9:30 PM, we found most of the family in bed. Cousin Jessie Williamson was up, however, and welcomed us but we did not stay long. After having some lemonade and cake we returned to Glasgow, promising to come again the next day.
 

Glasgow, Scotland, June 3^rd, 1901. Bro. Smith and I went to the fair in the morning. I went through it hastily, however, while Bro. S. read his bible at the gate. I had no time to really see anything. It seemed very small after seeing the Paris Exposition, but I suppose in view of the short time in which it was gotten up that it was pretty good. At 12 o'clock we two went out to Rutherglen again.⁽³³⁾ We received a kindly welcome, had dinner with the folks, a pleasant chat and then returned in time for me to get the 5:35 train for Liverpool. I arived there at 12 PM and was met by Bro. A. Buchanan at the station. Found all well at "42" and received a warm welcome from President and Apostle Lyman.
 

Liverpool, Engand, June 4^th, 1901. Commenced today to get ready to sail for home. Attended to some work Apostle Lyman desired me to do, mapped out a two month[']s trip for him on the Continent, beginning at Cologne, Germany and ending at Trondhjem [sic], Norway.
 

June 5^th. Everything is packed ready for the boat. A farewell meeting was held this evening in our little hall. There was a full house, speeches, songs and recitations were indulged in.
 

Liverpool - June 6^th, 1901. All our company went to the boat about 2 o'clock PM. I was the last to leave old "42." I went on board at 3:30 PM. Through the kindness of Mrs. Kruse, Manager of the Dominion Steamship Co., Presidents Lyman, Naisbitt and myself were given saloon, or first-class passage. About half past four our boat, which was the "New England," moved away from the pier, or rather the landing stage. Many handkerchiefs were waving, both from the stage and from the ship. I had the stars and stripes and the Union Jack, small silk handkerchiefs and waved them as the boat moved away. The sun was shining and the weather was fine as we moved out of the River Mersey. All hands were on deck and feeling fine. The evening passed away pleasantly.
 

June 7^th. Today we got out on the ocean and its swell soon had a distressing effect on many of the passengers. Quite a number were seasick.
 

June 8^th, 1901. Today we have good weather again. The sea is very smooth and yet many are unable to be out.
 

June 9^th, 1901. This being Sunday, Church of England services were held in the cabin. They were very formal, reminding one of Paul's prophecy that they would have "a form of Godliness denying the power thereof."⁽³⁴⁾ A few prayers were read from the prayer book, some hymns were sung and all was over without a word of reasoning on the scriptures. We are still favored with a smooth sea but many are sick notwithstanding.
 

June 10^th, 1901. Today I had the privilege of inspecting the engine rooms of the ship. They are wonderful. Besides the power that runs the propellors, there are electric light and ice plants, condensing boilers for water to use in the engines and for ship use and a wonderful amount of machinery. To have the privilege of going through one of these big ships is certainly an educational experience. The New England is said to be one of the best boats that runs between Liverpool and Boston and yet it is small compared with the Oceanic, which is the largest boat that floats. I have many duties to perform. We have a three week's old baby belonging to Sister Frame which I have to keep an eye over to see that she is properly cared for. Previous experience, however, has fully qualified me to do this, and then there are certain people that have to be provided with chocolate and walked on deck. This I must do for them.
 

June 11^th. The sea is rougher today, and as a result there is more sickness. There are 700 passengers on board. To call the different passengers to meals, a bell is rung in the steerage, a gong sounded in the 2^nd cabin and a cornet played in the first.
 

June 12^th, 1901. We are still having lovely weather. The sunset last night was gorgeous. The western sky was dotted with clouds, all of which were tinted by the lowering sun, presenting a lovely scene. [Typescript page 12 to page 13]
 

June 13^th, 1901. The weather continues very fine. The sea is smooth as glass. We have seen many whales today. Will arrive at Boston in the morning.
 

June 14^th. Arrived in Boston at 5 A.M. The company got through the custom house and left for the west on the one o'clock train. Pres. Lyman, H. B. Thompson, Clara Holbrook, Mrs. Everard and myself remained a day and a half in Boston. We visited the bunker hill monument, the Boston Commons and the library and other places.
 

June 15^th, 1901. We went to Lexington and Concord and visited the places of interest there, the old battle grounds, the monument, the "Minute Man," the home and tombs of Emerson, Hawthorne, the Alcotts and H. D. Thoreau. These noted people are buried close together. A huge quartz stone marks the spot where Emerson lies. On the monument "The Minute Man" are these words by Emerson, "By the rude bridge that arched the flood, their flag to April's breeze unfurled, here once the embattled farmers stood and fired the shot heard round the world."
 

June 16^th, 1901. We left last night for Chicago. We were two nights and a day reaching this point. We arrived at ten o'clock the morning of the 17^th. Pres. Lyman's brother met us. We remained here this day and the 18^th and visited Lincoln Park and the Grant and Lincoln monuments, the zoo, the Swift stockyards and Mont. Word & Co.'s stores. It is a wonderful though somewhat shocking sight to witness the work done at Swift's yards. The number of animals slaughtered daily runs into the thousands.
 

June 18^th, 1901. We left this evening for Kansas City, which point we reached on the morning of the 20^th. We spent the day at Independence going over the temple lot. It stands on the highest ground in the vicinity, while all around are rolling hills. I consulted Dr. By, the cancer specialist, about my cancer. He wanted $500 to treat me until cured. We left at 6 o'clock in the evening for Provo, arrived there the morning of the 21^st about 10 o'clock.
 

June 22^nd, 1901. Met my brother and my wife, Mary, this morning at Provo. We remained several days here visiting friends. My brother returned the same day to Salt Lake.
 

June 23^rd, 1901. Attended the Scandinavian Conference in the tabernacle, Provo. A great many attended from all over the country. Pres. Lyman, myself and Josephine Booth were among the speakers in the afternoon. In the evening, I, also sister Booth, spoke at the 4^th Ward meeting.
 

June 24^th, 1901. Consulted Sister Steward about my cancer. She thought she could remove it provided the roots were not in vital parts of my throat. Continued visiting in Provo till Wednesday, the 26^th, when we took the train for Salt Lake. We remained here visiting for several days. I was baptized and administered to in the temple. My brother and I, also Apostle H. J. Grant, spoke at the services in the Temple. President Lyman spoke at the Sunday meeting in the Tabernacle. We continued visiting till Wednesday, July 3^rd, when we went to Ogden with Bro. & Sister McKay. In the evening we all drove to Huntsville and spent the night there.
 

July 4^th, 1901. Bro. & Sister McKay drove us down to Ogden and we got the 11:30 A.M. train for Clifton.⁽³⁵⁾ We arrived there at 2 o'clock and found no one to meet us. We started to walk home and were met on the way by Bro. R. Davis and wife. On the 7^th I attended two meetings in Clifton and spoke at each of them.
 

(Papa never did put the finishing touch in this journal. It was on the 7^th day of July, 1901 that he spoke at the meetings in Clifton, Idaho. Papa, the 5 children and I moved to Ogden 3 or 4 weeks later, supposed to have been a temporary move but, however, we never did go back to Clifton to live after living in Ogden 8 months we moved to Salt Lake where Papa passed away on Aug. 7^th, 1902.)
 

Mother (Mary J. McMurrin)
 

1. Son of Joseph and Margaret (Laeing) McMurrin, husband of Mary Jacobson McMurrin, father of Arleen McMurrin Dean, grandfather of James McMurrin Dean, Sr., great-grandfather of James McMurrin Dean, Jr., great great-grandfather of Matthew Fitzgerrell Dean and William McMurrin Dean.

2. See map at http://www.etrippers.com/images/Maps/Switze1.jpg

3. See the "Bruenig Pass" in the Columbia Encyclopedia http://www.bartleby.com/65/br/BrunigPa.html

4. See the home page for Nuremberg http://www.nuernberg.de/

5. An error for "FrauenKirche" in Bremen?

6. Better known today as the "Iron Maiden of Nuremberg." See http://www.cecut.org.mx/GALERIA/tortura/nurembur.htm; or http://shanmonster.lilsproutz.com/witch/torture/nuremberg.html

7. This must be an error for "robber."

8. Here JLM departs from his usual spelling "Nurnberg."

9. Error for Durer?

10. Later in the paragraph he spells the name "Hoffman." I believe the reference is to HOFFMANN, JOHANN LEONARD - (1740 - 1814). See http://www.escape.ca/~williams/history/hol.htm, s.v. Hoffmann.

11. See Columbia Encyclopedia s.v. Lorelei: http://www.bartleby.com/65/lo/Lorelei.html

12. See the homepage for Görlitz http://www.goerlitz.de/

13. MS feel.

14. MS vail.

15. JLM must have got this wrong. The usual inscription even in modern Bibles is I.N.R.I. standing for "Iesus Nazarenus rex Iudeorum," Jesus of Nazareth king of the Jews. This may be an error of memory.

16. The term I know is "vestments" not "Vestine." Perhaps that is a local or LDS term.

17. See Catholic Encyclopedia http://www.newadvent.org/cathen/02761a.htm

18. Here as often JLM omits an article, in this case the definite article. He omitted the indirect article in the first sentence of the previous entry.

19. Danzig is probably better known today as Gdansk, where the Polish workers under Lech Walenska led an uprising against their communist oppressors. For e-postcards from Gdansk, see http://www.ostsee-urlaub-polen.de/gdansk/gdansk_postkarten.htm

20. I'm not certain I have the correct story, but on the Cornell web page for the Making of America I found the following page, which has links to "The First Settler's Story" by Will Carlton. See http://cdl.library.cornell.edu/moa/browse.author/c.27.html then click on "The First Settler's Story." A web search for "Phanderis Crahore" pulled up nothing. It might just be an outdated document (poem?) or JLM may have got the spelling wrong. Crahore is a surname, and Phanderis may have been a well-known (at the time) LDS settler or traveler.

21. The s on this word is circled in pencil.

22. The phrase "their mother's" is underlined in pencil and a "[sic]" is inserted at that place between paragraphs.

23. Statues of little babies?

24. Young Men and Young Women's Associations.

25. The entry for May 9 is tucked away in the entry for May 8.

26. There is an overstrike on the typescript and I cannot make out the first capital letter. It might be B or F or even some other letter.

27. An error for Trondhejm or Trondheim.

28. Typescript fine.

29. JLM is correct in his translation but the word for home in Norse is heim or possibly hejm but not hjem.

30. Mary Ellen Jacobson comes from Gotland. She was probably recruited by JML on a missionizing visit to Gotland.

31. The lack of an entry for 30 May must be owing to the sudden change of plans and the necessity of getting to Scotland.

32. See http://www.geo.ed.ac.uk/scotgaz/towns/townfirst417.html

33. Reading between the lines here: JLM may not have received the welcome he hoped for. Perhaps the Rutherglen relatives were not Mormons.

34. JLM may be thinking of 2 Timothy 3.5: "Having a form of godliness, but denying the power thereof: from such turn away" (KJV).

35. This is Clifton, Idaho as the postscript by JLM's wife, Mary J. McMurrin, makes clear.